Friday, May 3, 2013

Etretat and Rouen


Friday, May 3, 2013, Etretat and Rouen, France

We picked up our car this morning and drove to Etretat, a small seaside village north of Le Havre.  Fodor’s put us to it with “its spectacular stone formations famously immortalized in paint by the Impressionists” and by giving the whole town a “Fodor’s choice” star.  It was warranted!  Monet, Boudin and Corbet are among the artists who painted here.  Here are the cliffs looking first south and then north:

 


 
There are a couple of strategically placed Monet reproductions along the rocky beach:

 


As we drove on the back roads, avoiding the superhighways, we came across vast stretches of canola fields in bloom with yellow flowers:

 


Canola is used not only for cooking oil, but also is a major source of biofuel.  Our Renault is a diesel and is getting astonishing mileage while having plenty of pep.  Wonderful!  After lunch we drove to Rouen and checked into our hotel.  We began walking the town, and immediately came to one of the most famous sights here, the Gros-Horloge, a Renaissance clock with two faces, each of which looks down a pedestrian street from an arch built in 1527 specifically for it:

 
 
 


Perhaps the most famous sight in Rouen is the Notre Dame cathedral, a Gothic spectacle.  Construction began in the 12th century and it wasn’t completed until the 17th century, some 500 years later.  It is both quantitatively and qualitatively amazing:

 



Inside, we came across an ensemble preparing for a concert tomorrow with ancient instruments and song.  Here is the lute player and the “serpentine” player. 

 


I’d never seen a serpentine before, and asked the musician to play it for me.  Here’s what it sounds like:

 

Finally, this is the town where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, and there is a church dedicated to her.  Here’s a statue of Joan with the flames climbing up from her feet:

 


And here’s her very unusual church.  The interior has some wonderful very old windows:

 
 
 

Neither of us cared much for it.  So that’s it for today, a very full day!

2 comments:

  1. How amazing to see that spot at Etretat! I noticed it in several paintings in museums before finding out that, of course, it's famous to art historians. I love that the government has put up a reproduction of one of the paintings to show the connection.

    I wonder what the aesthetic intent was at the Joan of Arc church: she led an army, so make the building feel like a hangar for storing military airplanes? What a contrast to the human-scaled 15th-century wooden church you showed us earlier on your trip!

    Thanks for the splendid photos, as always! Berlioz writes about the awful sound of that serpent-shaped instrument, which was used in the early nineteenth century to accompany the priests and congregation singing chant. In the early 1980s there used to be one on display in the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. Imagine _choosing_ to revive such an unpleasant device!

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    1. Wow, Ralph, you are a true Renaissance scholar! But wait until you see what I post for today which was the inspiration for Saint-Saens' Danse Macabre!

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