Normandy Beaches, Bayeux Tapestry

Wednesday, May 1, 2013, Caen, France

What a day!  Physically and emotionally trying.

We docked in Caen and left very early for the beaches of Normandy.  On arriving, we stopped first at the cliffs at Point du Hoc.  On the way we had an extensive explanation of the sites we’d be seeing, and this one is famous (or infamous) for being the landing place of the Rangers who were to scale the cliffs and take out the German artillery which could fire on Omaha Beach, immediately adjacent.  The amazing story is full of troubles and is complex; suffice it to say that the Rangers took the site, but with great loss of life.  Here are the 100+ foot cliffs:

 

We then went to Omaha Beach.  This was one of the major invasion points on D-day, and there are innumerable stories about the invasion and the loss of life here.  We were there at low tide (which is when the invasion took place) and the beach is very deep, which led to its choice as an invasion point but also led to many catastrophes as the landing craft couldn’t get very close and the men were forced to come ashore walking through water with heavy wet packs.  The Germans were on a bluff overlooking the beach and the Allied troops were sitting ducks.  The battle was won, but just barely, with great loss of life.  We heard many of the countless stories.

 

We then went to the St. Laurent cemetery where 9387 men and 4 women are buried.  In addition there is a memorial to 1557 troops missing in action.  The burials represent about 40% of the men who died in Normandy, as families were given the choice to have a burial there or to repatriate the remains and bury them at home.  The cemetery is very beautiful, on a bluff overlooking the ocean, and is meticulously kept:

 

 

We had a moving ceremony, with two members of our group who lost relatives there laying a floral wreath at the foot of a memorial statue. We then sang the Star Spangled Banner, stood silently for Taps, and identified and recognized all the veterans in our group (a surprisingly high percentage).  Joyce and I then found one of the 149 Stars of David, placed stones on it, and said Kaddish for Pvt. Efraim Loew of New Jersey.

 

In the afternoon we went to Bayeux, a small village nearby, which houses the incredible Bayeux Tapestry (which isn’t a tapestry but is an embroidery).  This is an enormously long piece of linen, embroidered in the late 11^th century, which tells the story of 1066 when the Duke of Normandy invaded England and won the Battle of Hastings.  It’s amazing to realize that it’s almost 1000 years old!  The embroidery is not very fine, but the story is easily recognized (especially because of the help of headphones which tell the story as you walk along it).  Photos are not allowed; this is from a brochure:

 

The town is very old with a gorgeous gothic cathedral:

 

Some houses date back to the middle ages:

 

Upon return to the ship we had a long (90 minute) lecture followed by a Q and A with David Eisenhower, DDE’s grandson.  He was introduced by Julie Nixon Eisenhower, who helps with writing and editing his books.  He spoke in great detail about Operation Overlord, the code name for the Normandy invasion, and gave many anecdotes and insights into his grandfather.  Interestingly, he said that DDE felt the responsibility for the Normandy invasion was the greatest privilege and responsibility he had in his lifetime; greater than anything which happened in two presidential terms.

So we’re exhausted and packing up, as we leave the ship and the Smithsonian tour tomorrow morning and will then be traveling on our own.  More to come!